Morray, Machu Picchu, Copacabana & more!

 
                                                                                   So we have been on the go now for officially over a week since I left the volunteer house.  First was Morray, which is located about two hours outside of Cusco.  There were about eleven of us (people from the volunteer house) that went.  We hired a van and were on our way on mostly dirt roads.  I wasn't expecting the view we had, but it was glorious.  

Morray was a place where the Inca's tested agriculture.  It was a sort of laboratory where they could test different crops to see what the best conditions were to grow.  It is a series of circles, lowering one by one into a circular centre.  We decided to take a couple of bottles of wine and some food and have a picnic right in the centre.  It was pretty amazing, and for really cheap too!  The total cost per person was under 10 US dollars.  Can't really go wrong can you!

Our next stop was Machu Picchu and friends I can't tell you how amazing this place really is.  We traveled through the night, from a bus to wait in a line for a van.  From the van, to wait in a line for a train.  From the train to another van, and then finally the hostel in a little sleepy town called Aguas Calientes.  We went right to bed, because our alarm was set for 3:45am.  We waited in line to catch one of the first buses up to Machu Picchu.  There are a ton of tourists, which you would think would ruin the experience, but it really didn't.  

The Mercedes Benz buses took us up the mountain, driving in an S pattern all the way up.  The view was amazing, clouds surrounding Andean mountains.  When we got to the top there was another line.  We managed to get our ticket to climb Waynapicchu.. YES!  There are only 400 people per day allowed to climb and two times, 7am and 10am.  After waiting in yet another line, we were allowed to climb Waynapicchu.  It was out of a movie.. namely Indiana Jones.  The path was all stone steps, leading directly up the mountain.  It was hard, and strenuous but only lasted for about an hour.  When we got to the top, we watched the clouds all around us start to part and we got a glimpse of the ruins.  Apparently high priests and priestesses lived on this mountain.  Their houses were still in tact and you could go into them.  

Our guided tour started at 10:30am so we had to bust down the mountain as fast as we could and find our guide.  This tour, I thought was going to be boring but proved to be really interesting. Our guide knew all sorts of facts, stories, legends about this amazing, mysterious place.  In fact Machu Picchu isn't actually the name of the ruins, it's the name of the adjacent mountain.  No one actually knows the name of the ruins, that's why they are considered such a mystery.  He walked us through every building, rock, pebble and stone and told us what the meaning of everything was.  If you turn a picture of the ruins sideways you actually see a picture of an Inca man's face and if you hold it upright you can see a condor (a large bird of Peru, which has certain spiritual meaning).  There was everything from school houses, to guest houses, to main quarters which held royalty and had the only private bathroom.  There were plaza's and places to grow crops.  The water to this day still filters in from the mountains and is so clean you can still drink it.  Llamas grazed the open fields and they were so friendly and made the atmosphere that much better.  Apparently this was a complete functioning culture with no currency involved.  Instead they traded what they had with each other.  If one village grew mais (corn) and the other village specialized in spiritual ceremonies, they would trade.  How amazing!  We could learn a thing or two.  
 
I took a ton of pictures, but honestly speaking my pictures do no justice to what we saw.  This place is a true masterpiece.  Just to touch the stones, you felt this presence or energy that was unlike anything I've ever experienced.  I dreamt of this place two years ago.  I dreamt of going to Machu Picchu and watching the sun rise and there I was standing at the top of it all, taking deep breaths, trying not to let my knees wobble to much.  I MADE IT!  It was such an overwhelming feeling to be there.  I felt so fortunate that my dream actually came true.

We left Cusco on Friday night to come to Copacobana with a good friend I met at the volunteer house.  Copacobana is a small town off the coast of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side.  That's right friends, I am in Bolivia.  Copacobana was a really friendly village and really cheap.  We stayed in a hostel for a couple of US dollars a night.  We took a day tour to the islands, Isla del Sol.  This place is where the sun was apparently born.  It had great views, and was 2 US dollars to get there and back.  We made friends with a native to the Isla del Sol, he must of been 80 plus years old and lived on the top of the mountain on the island.  It was really relaxing to be in Copacobana, definitely worth hitting up for no more than a day or two.  

We caught a bus this morning to La Paz, one of the main cities in Bolivia.  We decided to go all out and spend a whopping 30 US on a hotel.  It's pretty expensive here, which we didn't plan for.  The city is dirty, scary and not top on my list of the places we have been to date.  The bus operator told us to watch our "mochillas" (backpacks) very carefully.  It's not somewhere you would want to be alone or at night.  We picked a fancier hotel.  Get this, our hotel room has it's own bathroom!!!!!! AND AND, TOILET PAPER!  WOW.  We also have wifi in our rooms (hence the long blog post) and cable tv where Mark currently watches Silence of the Lambs with sub titles.  We are resting here for the next couple of days before we head to the salt flats in Uyuni.  

Should be interesting!
I'll keep you all posted.     

A sad goodbye and a warm hello!

Mark has finally arrived and we have been planning the next leg of our journey, which meant that on Friday I had to say goodbye to the kids at Madre Teresa. I took Mark along with me to meet them. They welcomed him with open arms and lots of hugs. They each competed for his attention, and he didn’t hesitate to give each of them just that.. attention! I’m not so sure if they understood that it was literally my last day being there, but they all said in unison “ciao”. It was Jesus that really caught my attention before I walked out. He looked at me with those big brown eyes, and said “ciao”. It was almost as if he was also saying thank you. I felt as if I should be the one saying thank you. Thank you Jesus, for making the past five weeks probably the most meaningful and sentimental time of my life.

We have tried a few different restaurants in two days, and I must say the local dish “pollo de brasa” has to be one of my favourites so far. We went to a Peruvian restaurant just off of the avenida el sol, known for it’s roasted chicken. For 11 soles, equivalent to about 4 US dollars, we received as much salad as you can eat, a quarter of a chicken and papas fritas. I’m not sure how the Peruvians manage to do it, but they make the most mouth watering roasted chicken. Cooked perfectly, with extra large portions. Definitely worth trying.

We walked the streets and found ourselves in a part of town that tourists don’t visit. This was actually a bit of a relief considering June is Cusco’s busiest tourist season. This street was bustling with people, food markets, little electronic shops, music blaring, buses honking.. wow! Mark said it reminded him of India minus the garbage.

While eating at the restaurant, we managed to pre-plan the next month of our travels. We are heading east to Bolivia, La Paz. There are salt flats there that stretch for miles and are apparently mind blowing. It’s a three day trip and really cheap. From there we are going to head back to Peru and travel along the coast north towards Lima, hitting Arequipa and the Colca Canyon as well as Nasca to see the Nasca Lines by airplane. We will also sandboard in Ica and drink wine at the local and well known wineries. From there we are planning on taking a flight from Lima to Ecuador to spend a few days there and end up on the beaches of Mancora, a northern coastal town of Peru, then at last back to Lima for our flight back to reality.

Stay tuned people….

Cuy Cuy Cuy!

Our cook is named Edgar.  He is very funny, cool, calm and collected.  He offered to take us out for "Cuy".  For those of you who do not know what cuy is, I will tell you once and once only... GUINEA PIG.  I was so tempted to say "hell no", but my motto after all is that I'm only in South America once.  So I sucked up my gut wrenching feeling and followed Edgar out the door.

He took us to a local restaurant in the main plaza de armas.  It was more fancy than most cuzquenian restaurants, so I felt a bit at ease knowing at least my stomach wouldn't punish me after I ate.  I tried to figure out what would taste best with my guinea pig.. wine - no, spirits - no, I know Cusquenia - a local beer.. YES!  I ordered two, thinking it might help with the taste.  My friends followed.  

Finally it came out, and it was ... really unappetizing.  The comments heard from our table as the lovely waitress placed the full cuy, head and all down in front of us were: "i can't do it", "does somebody want my piece", "is that it's teeth", "no, fluffy!!".  Then the tables next to us asked if they could take their picture with our meal.  Is this really happening??  So after the waitress finally brought the dish from the other tables to the back to cut it all up I was somewhat relieved, knowing that I wouldn't have to see my meal in one full piece anymore.  She brought it back to the table with the head cut off and made into a piece on it's own.  I made dibs on the piece without the head attached and proceeded to wait for everyone else to take their piece.

I was about to peel the skin back and dig into the meat when Edgar said, "no no, you must eat the skin too".. of course, the skin too.  The crispy, thick, slimy skin.  I ate it, skin, meat and all.

What did it taste like?  Well it tasted like you would imagine a guinea pig would taste like.  It was slimy and flakey and there wasn't much meat.  It wasn't something I would try again, but I'm glad I sucked it up and gave it a whirl.  

                                When in Cusco, you must try cuy!

White water raftiing on Urubamba River!

I will keep this post short and sweet.  My amazing roomie was kind enough to offer me her laptop whenever it was free to blog, email etc. so I am fortunate enough to be blogging more than I thought.  I decided to take on what seemed to be the inconceivable to a 5 foot 1 and a half, non athletic, un-coordinated Canadian girl, and I decided to go white water rafting this afternoon.  My apologies, not just white water rafting... level 4 white water rafting.  I really had no idea what I was getting myself into but hey I'm only in South America once, and I promised myself I wouldn't pass up on any opportunity.  

I actually had what I will call a bit of a "stomach ache" from staying out too late the night before, so I missed part of the training as I decided I would be better off laying on the grass to ease my pain.  Bad idea, as I later found out I really did need to pay attention.  This trip costed 115 soles or the equivalent to 40 US dollars.  We were taken on a two hour bus ride outside of Cusco, into the glorious Andean mountains.  This was the backdrop to our rafting adventure.  We were split into groups of six and given an instructor.  Manuele was our peruvian guide and he was stellar!  We had to wear wetsuits and helmets with life jackets as well.  I have to say, I was surprised actually at how organized this particular event was, as generally speaking, the Peruvians lack organization.  The Urubamba River actually channels into the Amazon river.  It gives Machu Picchu it's lush green coloured forests as well (just a little tidbit of information).

This adventure was amazing and I would highly recommend it to anyone traveling into Cusco or Peru.  We rafted for approximately two and half hours straight.  It's tremendously hard on the body, but so so so worth it.  We were tossed about, left, right and centre.  We were thrashed into giant boulders.  We chanted while we rafted... "we will rock you".  We took a break half way and went for a dip in the ice cold river.  It was actually surprisingly refreshing.  The guides were well trained.  We had about ten guys with us, very fun loving, free-spirited, cool, calm and almost "surfer" like guys.  There were three of them in kayaks just in case anyone fell out.. which almost happened on more than one occasion.

In the end we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, had a blast, a great workout and we were even served a three course lunch on the riverside.  Definitely something worth doing a second time.  Only time will tell.... till next time people!

My kids at Madre Teresa!

This week has been all about the kids.  I'm starting to realize how truly precious they are.  They teach me something new each and every day.  I've finally gotten the chance to share time with each and everyone of them.  The three amigas Jasmine, Alehandra and Elena are trouble with a capital T.  They are pretty much joint at the hip and are individually very kinds, gentle and innocent but when put together they could rule the world I swear.  They are beautiful and will grow up to woo all the Peruvian boys out of their money, time and efforts.  GO GIRLS!  

Next on the list is Yong, probably one of the youngest boys, I would say 3 years old.  He is by far the cutest, but again a trouble maker.  His nose is continually runny and when you ask him not to do something, he looks at you, smiles... then goes against what you say and runs away laughing hysterically.  What can I do but giggle. 

Jesus (pronounced Hesus) is the most talkative and most inquisitive boy of the group.  He swears Spiderman exists and he talks with a mumble most of the time, except when he's playing with his flying ship made of broken lego pieces.  He is the worst at finishing his breakfast and lunch and I usually have to pretend that his rice and beans are either an airplane, horse or duck.  

Angelina (pronounced Anhelina) is the cutest girl of the group.  She wears her hair in pigtails everyday, loves taking photos and is the class gymnist.  She also likes to twirl around and dance in the middle of the room.  She greets me each and every morning with a huge hug at the front gate and a big old "Buenos Dias!".  

Brian is bad... oh so very bad.  He actually growls but when he gets hurt I'm the first one he goes to for a hug and a kiss.  He also doesn't like to finish his lunch so he hugs me a lot and asks me to feed him.  He asks about my nose ring, and my necklace, and how to spell my name.  Pretty much anything that will get him out of eating his lunch.  I love him to pieces.  

There are also the two that don't talk... at all.  Not a peep, except to cry.  Their names are Viviana and Hemena.  They are the cutest mutes I've laid my eyes on, and they eat all their meals.  They usually like to play by themselves, and are happy doing it.

All these kids, they are so beautiful inside and out.  Their parents can't afford to feed them nutritional meals so they come to us.  They teach me spanish, they pull my heart strings every time they say my name.. "Friya".  I love them more and more every day.  It makes me realize how hard it will be to leave them in a week and a half.  

Priya.... more to come  

Como se dice.. AMAZING!?!

So here I am entering my second week in Peru and I have to admit, life just doesn´t get much better than this.  My first week at my placement was interesting to say the least.  Things are not very organized here, so the organizations expect the volunteers to take things into their own hands, which is something I have to admit, I´m not very used to.  It was a challenge at first, considering there were three volunteers to plus twenty kids under 5.  As time goes on, I learn their names, ages and interests.  They teach me more spanish then I learn in my class.  They greet you every morning with a big ¨HOLA¨ and a warm hug.  They don´t forget your face, and they appreciate you being there each and every morning.  The kids that I´m working with are mal-nutritioned.  Some are street vendors, some came from hospitals, and others have nowhere to go during the days, while their families work.  It is more rewarding then I ever imagined.  Some days I run into these same kids trying to sell things on the street in the main plaza.  At first I was sad for them, but now I know that this is just the way of life.  Most if not all people here are happy.. truly happy.  So my pity is no longer pity, it´s turned into respect and admiration.

As for my weekend.. well we visited Lake Titicaca (don´t laugh).  After an eight hour bus ride, we entered Puno - which I must say was nicer to read about then to see.  Our hostal was good for two things, hot water and safety from the outside streets.  We ended up visiting a local Bolivian fiesta, where they sold all things miniature.  We ate at a local gringo restaurant, rode a rickety old ferris wheel and headed back to the hostal.  During that time, a policeman warned us that we would absolutely be mugged, so to take extra care.  We made it out alive and had a great first night.

The next morning, bright and early we headed onto the boat to our first stop Uros, also known as ¨the floating islands¨.  Our guide Anhil was incredibly funny, boisterous and full of charisma.  These islands, as we learned, are made fully of reeds that grow in the lake.  There are over 80 islands housing about 4000 people.  Each island is home to one family, including aunts, uncles, grandmothers/fathers etc.  They also have a president for each island.  We learned that almost everything on the island is made from the reeds.  It was simplicity at it´s best.  It was incredible.

After another 3 hours on the boat, passing the most breathtaking views of each island we came to Amantani.  This is not a man made island, and on it was a quaint little village.  We were separated and escorted by our island mother to our homes for the night.  These homes were make shift, no electricity and only the bare necessities were available.  It came as a relief surprisingly.  Our mother´s name was Alicia, and her daughter was Ruby.  There was a family of about 7 that lived in the same house that we stayed in.  The toilets were the worst part, and something I´m not sure I could get used to, but everything else... WOW.  We hiked to the top of the mountain that the island was on to see the sunset.  It was about a two hour hike up and we were rewarded with one of the most amazing sunsets I´ve ever laid my eyes on.  I actually got a bit emotional just taking it all it.  How fortunate am I to be where I am?  I am surrounded by beautiful people and beautiful places.  *SIGH*

We hiked back down to our family homes.  From there we had a very simple dinner by candle light.  We were about to nap, when our house mom came into our room and laid down three traditional women´s outfits.  She helped us put them on, and we headed down for a fiesta in the main plaza with the rest of our group.  We danced, and sang all night long with our dresses on.  What an experience.  Afterwards the six of us, found a random empty lot and gazed at the stars.  The stars... the milky way, Jupiter, Venus, Mars.. they were all there, dancing right in front on my eyes.  It almost looked like I could reach out and grab one.  You couldn´t even see a blank spot in the sky.  What a night!

The next day we visited yet another island, Isla de Taquile (not Tequila).  It´s funny how different two island cultures can be, considering they are so close together.  On this island we hiked to the top and had lunch.  We learned that single people wore different coloured hats then married people.  Here on this island, men did most of the knitting and the women bore the children.  Actually, if a woman was interested in man, she would pour water into his hat.  If the water stayed for a minute or two, then he was a good catch.  If the water poured right out, then this man was incapable of sewing/knitting and was no good.... NEXT!  If only life were so easy.  

We ended up back in Puno after another three hour boat ride.  The six of us ate a great and long lasting dinner and still had a few hours left before we had to get onto the night bus.  We ended up heading to a hole in wall bar, where we realized.. yes karaoke!  From Bette Midler to Gun´s and Roses with a few spanish songs in between we sang and drank a few cervesa´s.  It made for a great end to a fantastic weekend.  

Who know´s what´s next for me... only time will tell. 

On top of the world in Cusco

I landed in Cusco after travelling for over 24 hours at 7:15am yesterday morning.  The flight was extraordinary.  Flying through the Andes, seeing snow capped mountains, the sun was rising on the mountains as far as the eye could see.  By far the most amazing plane ride I´ve ever experienced.  I was helped by a new friend I made in Lima airport Silvano, a gentleman from France who was planning on spending 8 months in South America.  We parted ways and I was officially on my own in Cusco. 

I wandered outside and was met by Miguel, holding a sign saying ¨Priya B¨- of course they couldn´t spell my last name, or it wouldn´t fit on the sign.  After about a twenty minute van ride we arrived at Maximo Nivel - the volunteer office/spanish school that would be my home base.  I met a guy named Yorn (sp?) from Germany who was in the same volunteer house as me.  We were taxied to our home.  We were smack dab in the middle of a traditional Cusco community.  Our home is amazing and very welcoming.  Nellie is our ¨mom¨ i guess you could say, she looks  after the house and cooks breakfast, lunch and dinner for us.  There are about 11 people in the house.  Each of the four levels holds 2-3 bedrooms and a bathroom.  There is a patio on the roof as well.  Each window overlooks the most breathtaking view of both the city and the mountains.  I couldn´t ask for more. 

My roommates took us to breakfast after I got settled into my room, too excited to realize that I hadn´t slept or showered in more than 24 hours.  We went to a quaint little cafe with a balcony overlooking the Plaza del Armas which sits in front of a cathedral, a large water fountain and plenty of shops.  The coffee is amazing here, and the food quite the same.  Since it was Sunday, there was a parade that was going on, with traditional costumes, and songs, and militia marching around the plaza.  We stayed, enjoyed conversation with my new friends, wonderful scenery and Peruvian music.  I was finally refreshed!  

After lunch we went home, no not to change and shower but to go on a hike.  This hike lasted 4 hours!  We went up to one of the ruins in Cusco known as Saqsaywamam which is a complex of Inca ruins. It was an outpost consisting of three outer walls (15m, 10m, & 7m) with three watch towers on top. It was a military post and a religious place with a temple and ceremonial plaza between the post & temple. Large stones were used to construct the outpost (360 t) with unique jointing methods in the walls. The site was destroyed by the Spanish and used as a quarry for pre cut stones for new construction in Cusco until 1930.  What made the ruins even more amazing was the view.  A view like I´ve never seen and will never be able to fully explain.  Some compare it to Machu Picchu but I haven´t yet experienced that view.  From there we walked over to the statue of Christo Blanco.  A large white statue of Jesus, many are found in South America, including the well known one in Brazil.  On the way we saw local kids playing soccer, eating lunch and singing.  Some of the kids were sliding down these stone made walls, resembling slides... looked like a lot of fun. It was amazing. 

After we got home, I finally had a moment to shower, in the cold.. no wait ice cold showers.. and take a moment to relax.  My roommates and I watched some tv, and I called it an early night.  I was utterly exhausted but was still smiling.  I´m so glad I came here, it is much more than I ever imagined.

Stay tuned.....